Update

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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Sun Sep 14, 2014 11:48 am

Finally getting my head around this dry sump thing. I had a mini heart attack yesterday when I checked the dipstick and it was BONE DRY.

Although a search doesn't seem to reveal much, this question is probably one of the most common from new owners. Don't be embarrassed though because asking is a better solution than guessing - particularly when it comes to checking and topping up the oil level!!

The oil gauges consist of Oil Level, Oil Pressure ad Oil Temperature. Because the 964 has a dry sump engine you cannot check the oil level when the engine is cold as you would with a car with a more usual wet sump. There is very little oil left in the bottom of the engine.

You have to run the car until the oil is hot - at least hot enough for the oil thermostat to open. You can recognise this by closely watching the oil temperature gauge. The temperature should rise as the car warms up until the needle reaches the first graduation. It will then drop a little and stabilise - that's the point where the thermostat has opened. You can confirm it by feeling with your hand the top of the right front wing as it will be warm to the touch because of the oil pipes directly beneath.

With the engine oil hot, let the engine idle for a minute or two on level ground and the oil level gauge should, ideally, show with the needle roughly horizontal (or maybe a little above). You do NOT want the gauge to be up at the top of the scale. The oil level gauge has no meaning at any other time and can be completely ignored. The dipstick (top right hand corner of the engine compartment - about 3 feet long!!!) should be used to confirm the oil level under the same conditions and be the primary check until you have confirmed the oil level sender is trustworthy.

Oil pressure will normally be around the 5 bar at startup when cold and at all times when over 3000 rpm. At tickover it will drop to around 1 bar when hot.

Be aware that temperature plays a great part in the oil level since it expands when hot so the displayed level will change as the oil gets hotter. There is also a LOT of oil compared to most cars - over 11 litres in all - and it takes a while to get it all hot.
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:13 pm

I woke up this morning and wanted to take the day off. But an hour later I was back in the driveway.

Rear bumper is now properly secured. The screws are much easier to access than the front bumper.
The replacement tail light that the PO purchased must have been for a different market, as the hole for the side light was not there. I made a template from the other tail light and drilled out and dremelled the accepting hole to work. Fits perfectly! I took my time removing the gasket from the old light and used a bit of silicone glue to set it in place.
Center section for the lights snapped in quite nicely. There is a heat shield that goes behind the center section that protects it from the exhaust. This is one of the few pieces that is missing from the car.

Mirrors, door cards, wheel well guards and side skirts are yet to be installed. The reverse lights don't appear to be working. I will have to look into that. Oh, and the horn goes off when I turn the wheel, so I had to pull the fuse at the side of the road after a little embarrassment.
I took the car out for a quick drive. What a blast! Needs an alignment, but feels great otherwise. Transmission is smooth and first gear goes by SO quickly.
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:13 pm

Image

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Re: Update

Postby tripwalking » Mon Sep 15, 2014 1:26 am

Exciting!
11 litres... That's crazy.
Reinhardt does all the alignment work for furtmeier (sp), if you're looking for someone.


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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Mon Sep 15, 2014 8:37 am

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind come spring!
Yeah, 11 liters is a lot. But seeing as the car uses the oil as a coolant and a pair of thick lines run up to a front radiator, it makes a lot of sense.
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:33 pm

Some progress!

Tonight I used a slide hammer and pulled the passenger side mirror mounting point straight. Worked fairly well. Only a slight ripple left that a more experienced body guy will be able to massage out.

Also took the opportunity to look into why I didn't have reverse lights. After researching online, I found the most likely issue area would be at the transmission reverse switch. I jacked up the car and pulled the contacts on the switch to find one was missing from the end of the wire. To test the wiring, I tied the two wires together, turned the ignition forward two steps and put the transmission into reverse. VIOLA! Reverse lights!

The only thing keeping me from putting the door cards on are the mirrors. The PO snipped the wires for the mirrors instead of fudging around with the wiring harness inside the door. As Rob can confirm, the door innards are a little tight. The PO was going to solder the wires back together once the bodywork was done. He said he had done it before and it was much easier than fiddling with the harness.
Instead of soldering and cutting every time the mirror has to come off for whatever reason, I ordered a compact, waterproof, 5 pin connector that I will add in line. It should arrive in the next few weeks, so I will try to be patient. I have a big itch to put those door cards on. It will almost feel like a complete car after that.
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Re: Update

Postby tripwalking » Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:27 pm

I have some weatherpak connectors at the shop if that would help.


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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:32 pm

That was my first thought. However the hole the connector has to go through is only 7/8" round and it requires a five pole connector. None of the weatherpak ones were small enough that I could find. Which is fine, I found a good connector for the job, just have to be patient.

Thanks for the offer though!
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Re: Update

Postby Maraschino Larry » Wed Sep 24, 2014 10:30 pm

Yeah good call with the connector. I agree that door cards will make a huge difference in it feeling like an actual car!

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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:20 pm

A little more progress this weekend.

I jacked up the rear end of the car to get better access to the reverse switch wiring. After putting the jack stands at the points ahead of the rear tires, I found that I have to keep the jack in place to keep the front end from lifting up! The fulcrum must be just a few inches ahead of the jack stand points. I knew they were heavy out back, but how safe is it to put on a lift?? I've heard of more than one instance of a Lotus Elise doing a backflip off of a lift after taking the front wheels off.

Anyhow, the reverse light wiring uses bullet style ends that you individually push into the switch and then you slide the rubber boot over it to seal it. One of the bullets was missings and I found the standard bullet connectors found at Canadian tire fit perfectly into the switch. So that's all taken care of now.

Windshield squirters are also installed. Odd thing about those as well.. they are left/right side specific because of the little washer fluid nipple points to the outside of the car on either side. If it pointed straight down it would work fine, but for some reason they decided on making it side specific. I wonder how many more things like that are needlessly over done. It fits nicely, but it wouldn't be necessary to do that.

Erratic horn behavior has been fixed. The Momo wheel's contact circle is sized correctly, but the frame of the wheel adapter is *slightly* small and contacts the outside of the contact spring on the steering column. A little electrical tape and grease is the only solution I could come up with, apart from machining the hub adapter down by 1/16". I'll do that sometime in the future. It looks like we will be getting some metal working tools at work, so I will take advantage of that!
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Sat Oct 04, 2014 12:14 pm

The connectors came in. Hopefully I get enough sunshine this weekend to put it together.

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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Mon Oct 06, 2014 8:24 am

Mirrors installed.
They would be surprisingly easy to steal. A single 3mm allen key on the outside of the car and snip the wires.
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Mon Oct 06, 2014 6:37 pm

Just learned that the window motors are from the VW MK2 parts bin.
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:16 pm

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Re: Update

Postby tripwalking » Tue Oct 07, 2014 12:28 am

Wow, new windshield?


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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:38 am

It's in pretty good shape. Likely has been replaced at some point.

Wipers on and working. Squirters also functional. Theoretically would be good for a safety now.
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Re: Update

Postby tripwalking » Tue Oct 07, 2014 12:59 pm

I thought I saw you driving... I think it was Sunday morning turning west on Maple Grove from Speedsville, coming from the north. I don't know these cars at all... it looked like yours but had BBS wheels. And it was yellow. And a trunk.
No man, it was totally the same as yours :)
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Tue Oct 07, 2014 1:47 pm

I saw you in the Golf! But it was black, only two wheels and the driver was wearing full motorcycle riding gear. Was that you? Oh and it was a girl.
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Re: Update

Postby Maraschino Larry » Wed Oct 08, 2014 11:27 pm

.**CLUB.**
**.*SODA**.*

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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Thu Oct 09, 2014 2:04 pm

Well put Rick.

Insurance may be better than it initially looked. Seeing that it's 25 years old now, it qualifies for "modified" classic insurance. Even at 20 years old it qualifies as a "stock" classic. I'm looking into different companies as to if suspension/wheels count as modification :)

Through Zehr Insurance - $240 year

Echelon Insurance collector vehicle - $230
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Thu Dec 04, 2014 12:36 pm

Holy Moly

A pair of front sport buckets like mine are for sale (in better condition) for $4500USD right now on Rennlist. For real??
The only difference between mine and the set for sale is the PORSCHE script cloth centers on mine, which I am told is rather rare. Looks like I won't be hacking these apart after all. I will redo the bolsters and redye the cloth and be done with it.
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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Thu Dec 04, 2014 12:42 pm

Once the car is on the road I will be insuring through Hagerty. ~$6-700 per year.
I set an agreed replacement value at $35k (which I can adjust as value increases), no restrictions on where I can drive. Any of the classic insurance contracts wouldn't even let me go to the grocery store with it! Parades and car shows only!
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Re: Update

Postby mushroom_curry » Fri Dec 12, 2014 1:38 pm

Hagerty is awesome. That's who Mike uses. Smart move.

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Re: Update

Postby Dreamstate » Mon Dec 15, 2014 3:21 pm

I built a test piece for the momo accordion boot replacement. Fits well, looks pretty good. Awaiting a visit to a fabric shop so I can get matching stitch thread for my future steering wheel.

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Re: Update

Postby Maraschino Larry » Mon Dec 15, 2014 3:34 pm

.**CLUB.**
**.*SODA**.*

tripwalking wrote:I'd be willing to split it straight up the crotch.
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